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Are chemical hair texturizers less , more or just as damaging as a rexaler?
Texture without damage..
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i would think that they are alittle less damaging than a relaxer.
check out this article.
Textured Tresses: Chemicals and African American Hair
by Diane Da Costa for iVillage
When done correctly, relaxed hair can look shiny and healthy. But if you don't take care of it properly, it won't stay that way for long. In this excerpt from her book Textured Tresses, hair care specialist Diane Da Costa explains the effects of chemicals on African American hair and offers up advice about care and maintenance for treated hair.
I am constantly asked the question "Do chemicals damage your hair?" And I always answer with "What is damage?" Chemicals only alter the structure of the hair. Damage is caused by failing o take proper care of the hair. The chemical process commonly known as relaxing will alter or change your natural texture, breaking down the natural structure of the hair. This process inherently strips the hair of protein, the building block of hair structure. In order to keep your relaxed hair healthy, you must revitalize the hair by replacing what has been taken away.
Relaxers
The relaxer systems today are far more superior than in the past. I strongly recommend going to a professional to receive a relaxer, texturizer, or softener. However, for those who feel they must bring out the hair stylist trapped inside themselves, consider having a friend or relative apply the chemicals. This way you're more likely to avoid overprocessing and damage to the hair shaft. Please make sure the instructions are followed carefully and always use the products contained in the system or package. For regular washings and conditionings after your chemical process, feel free to experiment with the products that work best for your hair texture. Again, I recommend botanical products derived from plant and flower essences. Try to stay away from products that contain mineral oil, beeswax, lanolin, or petrolatum (petroleum jelly). Popular styling products that are referred to as waxes are simply product brand names and are very effective in sculpturing and molding textured hairstyles.
There are various types of relaxers and softening products to choose from: sodium hydroxide-based (lye), calcium hydroxide based ("no-lye"), and thioglycolate-based are just a few. There is also a new Japanese reconditiong relaxer on the market that straightens the hair for up to one year before reapplication is necessary. Touch-ups are applied every three months. However, it's not recommended for highly textured hair; rather, it's for wavy or very loose curly hair. It is comparable to thioglycolates and uses a patented thermal straightener (flat iron) for activation. This method is similar to the Wave Nouveau but instead of restructuring the curl pattern the hair is flat-ironed straight and then neutralized.
No-lye relaxers are actually rather harsh and can be very drying to the hair because they contain calcium as their main ingredient. Although they are usually recommended for their slow processing and gentle treatment, over a period of time their use can reslut in brittle, dull, and lifeless hair. No-lye relaxers are usually recommended for sensitive scalp applications and color-treated hair.
I've used almost every brand and do recommend the professional lines used by certified professional stylists. Relaxer systems that I can recommend for use by your professional stylist are:
Mizani Relaxer System
Avlon Affirm Fiberguard
Sensitive by Nature
Gentle Treatment
Texture and Tones for Color-Treated Hair
SoftSheen-Carson (Optimum Professional MultiMineral Relaxer)
When the hair is relaxed 80 percent, not only is this healthier for the hair, but it also leaves a slight wave pattern so that you can wear your hair wavy or straight when heat is applied. Generally, if your hair is relaxed 100 percent you are overprocessing, creating lifeless hair. "Basically what it boils down to is that we have been relaxing 100 percent," says precision cutter Felipe. "If we decide to relax away from the scalp, seventy to eighty percent, we would get a nice wave pattern within that structure. With very good conditioners, this would give you the ability to style and the freedom to ear your hair any particular way."
When the hair is relaxed the bonds are broken and the natural proteins are taken out of the hair. That is why the products that I recommend have conditioning systems that build back the protein in the hair while the cuticle layer is still open, supplying the hair with the proper conditioning directly into the hair shaft. Follow up with a deep-penetrating conditioner.
Texturizing
Texturizing is a special relaxing technique that allows the stylist to achieve a softer, more manageable look with your natural curl pattern. Timing, technical application, and the strength of the chemical (usually mild to normal), depending on your natural curl pattern, are the factors that will determine great results.
A texturizer will release your natural curl pattern, adding softness and sheen to your hair. Texturizing a zigzag curl pattern should result in a soft afro blow-out. However, if the chemical is left on too long, your hair will become straight. In the same way a texturizer can turn a curly pattern into wavy curls, a coily pattern can become spiral curls.
Naturally textured hair may have more than one curl pattern throughout the head. That is why the technique is very important. Also, texturizers usually work well with hair that is short or already at a desired length. Generally, it should not be used to grow out the hair unless you have a wavy curl pattern. Why? Because s you continually apply the chemical on the new growth, the rinsing will inevitably cause the product to run over the already texturized hair, straightening the hair over a period of time. The result - no more texture, just straight hair.
Softeners
Softeners (thioglycolate-based) generally work best on hair that is wavy or has very loose curls. When applying any chemical products to hair that has been colored, make sure that they are products specifically developed for color treated hair, usually marked "for fine and color treated hair."
Conditioning
Conditioning is the key to healthy chemically treated hair and the steam moisturizing cream bath can be your salvation.
Growing Out a Relaxer
The texture of your hair plays a large part in the method or choice used to grow out the relaxer. Wavy hair is soft and very elastic. Therefore, the wave pattern of relaxed wavy hair will not easily break off. Very curly or tightly coiled curl pattern drastically differs from the now relaxed hair, thus making it more susceptible to breakage when growing out a relaxer. Breakage usually occurs after four to five months of unrelaxed time.
Conditioning is always key in growing out any chemical process. Also important are maintaining stressless hairstyles that stay away from added heat applications, and avoiding pulling and tugging especially on the hairline or any area that's held by a hair band or an elastic band.
Thermal Straightening
An alternative to relaxing natural hair to create a straight effect is thermal straightening. Both thermal combs and electric combs are commonly used to straighten the hair at home. I caution those who use thermal combs at home not to abuse this method while trying to keep the edges or, for that matter, the whole head straight. If you choose to straighten your own hair, I suggest that you use a thermal comb with a temperature gauge on low setting.
The old-fashioned hard press is the method hairdressers used to use to straighten the hair. A hot comb and some pressing oil usually did the trick. While this method left your hair very straight, it also broke down the cuticle layer, leaving the hair thin, lifeless, and damaged over a long period of repeated pressing. It's almost as if you straightened your hair with a chemical. Overapplying heat to the hair by combining blowdrying, pressing at a high temperature, and then curling will result in damage over a period of time.
Thermal Straightening Method
Step 1: Blow-dry the hair with a paddle brush or the Denman brush.
Step 2: Apply Carol's Daughter Hair Honey Mimosa Pomade, Aveda Anti-Humectant Pomade, or Aveda Control Paste.
Step 3: Section the hair, then use an electric flat iron to stretch the hair and straighten it flat. Flat irons come n various sizes from thin and small to large and wide. You can purchase a flat iron at any beauty supply store.
Step 4: Barrel curl, flat twist, or plait for a few days, then release and style.
check out this article.
Textured Tresses: Chemicals and African American Hair
by Diane Da Costa for iVillage
When done correctly, relaxed hair can look shiny and healthy. But if you don't take care of it properly, it won't stay that way for long. In this excerpt from her book Textured Tresses, hair care specialist Diane Da Costa explains the effects of chemicals on African American hair and offers up advice about care and maintenance for treated hair.
I am constantly asked the question "Do chemicals damage your hair?" And I always answer with "What is damage?" Chemicals only alter the structure of the hair. Damage is caused by failing o take proper care of the hair. The chemical process commonly known as relaxing will alter or change your natural texture, breaking down the natural structure of the hair. This process inherently strips the hair of protein, the building block of hair structure. In order to keep your relaxed hair healthy, you must revitalize the hair by replacing what has been taken away.
Relaxers
The relaxer systems today are far more superior than in the past. I strongly recommend going to a professional to receive a relaxer, texturizer, or softener. However, for those who feel they must bring out the hair stylist trapped inside themselves, consider having a friend or relative apply the chemicals. This way you're more likely to avoid overprocessing and damage to the hair shaft. Please make sure the instructions are followed carefully and always use the products contained in the system or package. For regular washings and conditionings after your chemical process, feel free to experiment with the products that work best for your hair texture. Again, I recommend botanical products derived from plant and flower essences. Try to stay away from products that contain mineral oil, beeswax, lanolin, or petrolatum (petroleum jelly). Popular styling products that are referred to as waxes are simply product brand names and are very effective in sculpturing and molding textured hairstyles.
There are various types of relaxers and softening products to choose from: sodium hydroxide-based (lye), calcium hydroxide based ("no-lye"), and thioglycolate-based are just a few. There is also a new Japanese reconditiong relaxer on the market that straightens the hair for up to one year before reapplication is necessary. Touch-ups are applied every three months. However, it's not recommended for highly textured hair; rather, it's for wavy or very loose curly hair. It is comparable to thioglycolates and uses a patented thermal straightener (flat iron) for activation. This method is similar to the Wave Nouveau but instead of restructuring the curl pattern the hair is flat-ironed straight and then neutralized.
No-lye relaxers are actually rather harsh and can be very drying to the hair because they contain calcium as their main ingredient. Although they are usually recommended for their slow processing and gentle treatment, over a period of time their use can reslut in brittle, dull, and lifeless hair. No-lye relaxers are usually recommended for sensitive scalp applications and color-treated hair.
I've used almost every brand and do recommend the professional lines used by certified professional stylists. Relaxer systems that I can recommend for use by your professional stylist are:
Mizani Relaxer System
Avlon Affirm Fiberguard
Sensitive by Nature
Gentle Treatment
Texture and Tones for Color-Treated Hair
SoftSheen-Carson (Optimum Professional MultiMineral Relaxer)
When the hair is relaxed 80 percent, not only is this healthier for the hair, but it also leaves a slight wave pattern so that you can wear your hair wavy or straight when heat is applied. Generally, if your hair is relaxed 100 percent you are overprocessing, creating lifeless hair. "Basically what it boils down to is that we have been relaxing 100 percent," says precision cutter Felipe. "If we decide to relax away from the scalp, seventy to eighty percent, we would get a nice wave pattern within that structure. With very good conditioners, this would give you the ability to style and the freedom to ear your hair any particular way."
When the hair is relaxed the bonds are broken and the natural proteins are taken out of the hair. That is why the products that I recommend have conditioning systems that build back the protein in the hair while the cuticle layer is still open, supplying the hair with the proper conditioning directly into the hair shaft. Follow up with a deep-penetrating conditioner.
Texturizing
Texturizing is a special relaxing technique that allows the stylist to achieve a softer, more manageable look with your natural curl pattern. Timing, technical application, and the strength of the chemical (usually mild to normal), depending on your natural curl pattern, are the factors that will determine great results.
A texturizer will release your natural curl pattern, adding softness and sheen to your hair. Texturizing a zigzag curl pattern should result in a soft afro blow-out. However, if the chemical is left on too long, your hair will become straight. In the same way a texturizer can turn a curly pattern into wavy curls, a coily pattern can become spiral curls.
Naturally textured hair may have more than one curl pattern throughout the head. That is why the technique is very important. Also, texturizers usually work well with hair that is short or already at a desired length. Generally, it should not be used to grow out the hair unless you have a wavy curl pattern. Why? Because s you continually apply the chemical on the new growth, the rinsing will inevitably cause the product to run over the already texturized hair, straightening the hair over a period of time. The result - no more texture, just straight hair.
Softeners
Softeners (thioglycolate-based) generally work best on hair that is wavy or has very loose curls. When applying any chemical products to hair that has been colored, make sure that they are products specifically developed for color treated hair, usually marked "for fine and color treated hair."
Conditioning
Conditioning is the key to healthy chemically treated hair and the steam moisturizing cream bath can be your salvation.
Growing Out a Relaxer
The texture of your hair plays a large part in the method or choice used to grow out the relaxer. Wavy hair is soft and very elastic. Therefore, the wave pattern of relaxed wavy hair will not easily break off. Very curly or tightly coiled curl pattern drastically differs from the now relaxed hair, thus making it more susceptible to breakage when growing out a relaxer. Breakage usually occurs after four to five months of unrelaxed time.
Conditioning is always key in growing out any chemical process. Also important are maintaining stressless hairstyles that stay away from added heat applications, and avoiding pulling and tugging especially on the hairline or any area that's held by a hair band or an elastic band.
Thermal Straightening
An alternative to relaxing natural hair to create a straight effect is thermal straightening. Both thermal combs and electric combs are commonly used to straighten the hair at home. I caution those who use thermal combs at home not to abuse this method while trying to keep the edges or, for that matter, the whole head straight. If you choose to straighten your own hair, I suggest that you use a thermal comb with a temperature gauge on low setting.
The old-fashioned hard press is the method hairdressers used to use to straighten the hair. A hot comb and some pressing oil usually did the trick. While this method left your hair very straight, it also broke down the cuticle layer, leaving the hair thin, lifeless, and damaged over a long period of repeated pressing. It's almost as if you straightened your hair with a chemical. Overapplying heat to the hair by combining blowdrying, pressing at a high temperature, and then curling will result in damage over a period of time.
Thermal Straightening Method
Step 1: Blow-dry the hair with a paddle brush or the Denman brush.
Step 2: Apply Carol's Daughter Hair Honey Mimosa Pomade, Aveda Anti-Humectant Pomade, or Aveda Control Paste.
Step 3: Section the hair, then use an electric flat iron to stretch the hair and straighten it flat. Flat irons come n various sizes from thin and small to large and wide. You can purchase a flat iron at any beauty supply store.
Step 4: Barrel curl, flat twist, or plait for a few days, then release and style.
