The Realities of Peptides

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Throughout the past decade, things have changed in the world of skincare. Improved ingredient penetration has become a standard, new study-supported ingredients are producing amazing results and consumers are becoming believers—as well as more demanding—after learning about their skin from every type of media outlet.



One example of a highly studied and results-oriented group of new ingredients that is becoming readily available is peptides. These include Matrixyl, otherwise known as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, and Argireline, otherwise known as acetyl hexapeptide-3. Because they are being touted as miracle substances in consumer magazines and on television clients want products that contain them and gladly will accept a larger price tag if they become educated about their results and realities.



What are peptides?



In order to understand these amazing new ingredients., it is important to learn what they are and what they will do for your skin. For years, collagen masks have been used in various treatments. But collagen is a long chain protein and, therefore, cannot penetrate the skin. At best, collagen treatments work as a barrier against transepidermal water loss.



Proteins must be broken down by digestion and other processes into smaller units called amino acids in order to be lized by the body. Because of this, proteins used in topical skin care products have to be simplified to enable them to penetrate and perform.



The miracle of these new anti-aging ingredients is that they are synthesized small chain peptides capable of penetrating the skin and triggering a high development of the dermal matrix. They contain molecules that are re-engineered from amino acids, and, by binding one amino acid onto another, they form a chain that is short enough to penetrate the epidermis. They then can build and repair the skin efficiently.



These short chain proteins (peptides) are designed from different configurations of the 20 standard amino acids important to the body’s functions. Each type of configuration triggers a specific response. A peptide is any of various natural or synthetic compounds containing two or more amino acids linked by the carboxyl group amino acid to the amino group of another.



The benefits:



Some of the newly synthesized peptides were assembled to create a healing and reapir response in the skin’s dermis by stimulating the collagen I, collagen III and elastin fibroblasts, as well as developing fibronectin (FN) and glucosaminoglycans (GAGs). In formulations for skin care products, this stimulation does the following,

  • supports the healing and repair response.
  • Aids in increased sin thickness
  • Refines the appearance of wrinkles.
  • Evens skin texture and tone
  • Prepares the skin for maximized results from clinical and medical treatment
All of these benefits an be obtained in products that are formulated in order to produce significant results without the necessity of a lower, more irritating product pH. Peptides also can be used in acid formulations, such as peels. Home-care products featuring these ingredients generally are applied twice daily and are formulated with antioxidants; highly efficient moisturizer, such as sodium hyaluronate; and other anti-aging ingredients, such as co-enzyme Q10 and DNA/RNA repair actives.
The list of available peptides is growing, including the following, listed in order of popularity:



Acetyl hexapeptide-3 – diminishes creases and wrinkles by preventing the signal protein, catecholamine, from connecting to the cell. This fosters the triggering of muscle contraction without paralysis, allowing natural expression and movement within the target area.



Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 – noticeably increases skin thickness and improves the appearance of aging skin. It also can stimulate the production of collagen IV fibroblasts.



Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 – these contain matrikines, which are messengers of cutaneous restructuringand repair. They activate the neosyntesis of extracellular matrix macromolecules to combat wrinkles.

Ceramide 2, PEG 10 rapeseed sterols and palmitoyl oligopeptide. -These ingredients stimulate cell communication, resulting in the repair of age-related skin damage.



Tetrapeptide-3 – markedly suppresses the production of interleukins—particularly IL6—the chemical messengers that trigger the skin’s acute inflammatory response.



Oxido reducatses, soy peptides and hydrolyzed rice bran extract – improve microcirculation, which increases oxygen supply to tissues, in addition to strengthening and protecting the integrity of the skin’s collagen and elastin. They inhibit elastase and collagenase through this activity. Free radicals are minimized, as well as the inflammation they cause.



Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 – when combined with oxido reductases/soy peptides/hydrolyzed rice bran extract, this peptide noticeably reduces puffiness and bags under the eyes.



The Realities



Despite the marketing claims, no product or ingredient is perfect. Peptides do contribute highly positive scientifically recognized results. However, there are realities that must be known.

  • they take time
  • peptides are specific –for different areas of the face
  • they are not forever
  • Peptides hae percentage requirements (must contain 3 – 5% palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in order to product notable benefits; Acetyl hexapeptide-3 must constitute at least 10% of a product.)








 
where can you get peptide products, or are they only available professionally? If they are available on a consumer basis, what are some product names?

thanks,

Nicole

 
Thanks! I am happy to read all of that. One day at the Clinique counter one of the S.A.'s had me panicked thinking that peptides were the ONLY way I was going to get rid of my "eleven" between my eyes. I tried their repairwear and I didn't like it! I thought I was screwed! Not so, however. I started using something by Clarins and the "eleven" is almost completely faded.

Sarah

 
Hi Ladies! I have been using OHT Poly Peptide3 for the last 3 months. And I feel it has diminished fine lines around my eyes and forehead. It is not cheap. I was able to purchase a 6 oz. bottle for $82.00 shipping and handling included.. I have seen it being sold for as much as $150.00!!! You have to shop around different sites to get the best price. Although it is expensive, a six once bottle will last you 3-4 months. I hope this helps!!!:icon_smil

 
Thanks for the article. It's very informative. Can anyone recommend a peptide products that can be purchased at a drugstore (i.e. L'Oreal Neutrogena, etc.)?

 
Just got back from the derm's office and she recommended Kinerase c6 Peptide and the cream after I told her I was worried about fine lines and one particular line I can see forming from frowning. They sell it in the office, $80 for a small bottle and $115 for a larger bottle. I'm not exactly sure of the ounces, I need to find out. Maybe find it somewhere else for less.

I was also given Retin-A Micro Gel .04%. I told her scrubs and masks weren't working for blackheads, so I'm suppose to use this for 3 weeks then go in for a clean-up of the expelled blackheads which should help. I hope I didn't gross any of you out. She also said she saw signs of Rosacea starting, but wanted to wait and see how my skin reacted to the Retin-A. I think my face was red, because it felt like it was 100 degrees in the office, but who knows. I don't have acne or any bumps or anything and I get pink cheeks at times, who doesn't and she never said it was Rosacea before. I'm going to have to get a second opinion on that diagnosis.

 
Hi again ladies! I just did a price check for Kinerase c6 on shopzilla, and bizrate.com. I have seen it as cheap as $77.00. However, from what I have read about this product, you must use the lotion as well. The cheapest price for the lotion I found was $50.00!!! Girls, always do a price check on different sites! Because, some internet companies wanted up to a hundred dollars the the same product. Hope this helps!! Leslie.

 
Kim, I'm definitely going to get a second opinion and ask lots of questions, because just by looking at my skin you can see it's smooth and doesn't have any bumps. Does a little pink flush mean I have it? I don't know, but I'm not starting any kind of treatment without knowing for sure.

I'm also going to look into the PH Advantage since you recommend it so highly. In the end those peel pads don't cost so much for almost an entire year's worth. The only think I would be concerned about is, would the Retin-A and the peel irritate my skin?

Thanks for all your help.

Oh and I will definitely be looking into getting the Kinerase somewhere cheaper. $80 for an ounce at my derm's office is a bit high, so I'm going to shop around first.

 
thanks for this great article!!! I seem to know a bit more now!:clap :icon_chee

 
Thanks for the % reminder. It's soooo important in many ingredients to get the right %, otherwise it either won't be effective, or worse, could be harmful. I may try to do some of my own mixing this summer with items like DMAE that is really cheap in pure powder form just to name one, so the % needed for optimal results is very important.

 
Hmmmm, I think with the capsules the grit of the powder doesn't matter because they're meant to be taken internally. Probably the powder form made and sold for mixing is much finer. I'll buy the smallest jar possible when I start out to test it, but thanks for the heads up.

 

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