Paula Begoun says that to be truly protective, the sunscreen must contain ingredients that block UVA - titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone, and Tinosorb and Mexoryl SX. So don't just look at the SPF number, check the ingredients also. Here's a quote from Paula:
The sun produces a range of ultra-violet (UV) radiation. Skin damage, such as wrinkling, skin discoloration, sagging, and coarse texture, is a consequence of unprotected sun exposure due to the cumulative effect of the sun’s UVA and UVB radiation. UVA and UVB radiation are the portions of the sun’s rays that cause this damage. UVA rays have wavelengths of 320 to 400 nanometers; UVB rays have wavelengths of 290 to 320 nanometers. UVB radiation causes sunburn, while UVA radiation does not produce any visible short-term evidence of skin damage. Nonetheless, UVA radiation creates serious cumulative changes in skin that may be far greater than the sunburn caused by UVB radiation. Research has shown that unprotected exposure to UVA rays can, within one week, create distinct injury, such as inflammation, abnormal cell production, stratum corneum (outer layer of skin) thickening, depletion of immune-stimulating cells, and evidence of the possibility of elastin deterioration. (Sources:
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, May 2001, pages 837–846;
Bulletin of the Academy of National Medicine, 2001, volume 185, number 8, pages 1507–1525;
Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, August 2000, page 147; and
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, January 1995, pages 53–62.)
To be truly effective and beneficial for skin, sunscreens must protect skin from both the sun’s UVA and UVB radiation. In the U.S., there are only three ingredients that are widely found in SPF products approved by the FDA that protect across the full UVA range, these are: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane). Outside of the U.S., Tinosorb and Mexoryl SX (also called ecamsule), are also used. Mexoryl SX is a L’Oreal-patented sunscreen ingredient that received FDA approval in July 2006 for use in a single sunscreen, Anthelios SX SPF 15 from L’Oreal-owned line La Roche-Posay. This is the only sunscreen with Mexoryl approved for sale in the U.S. (Sources:
International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 2002, pages 85–94;
Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, Photomedicine, August 2000, pages 147–155 and
Search the Web and
Skin Therapy Letter, Volume 2, Number 5, 1997 and
FDA Approves a New Over-the-Counter Sunscreen Product.)
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Ingredient Dictionary: U