Skin Lightening and Discolouration

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From Paula Begoun...

Skin discolorations and scarring caused from wounds of any kind, particularly the marks left over from blemishes, are very difficult to deal with. These skin blotches are very different from the brown spots caused by sun damage (melasma) or hormones (chloasma). Skin-lightening products containing ingredients (especially hydroquinone) that inhibit melanin production, when used in combination with a well-formulated sunscreen, can greatly reduce and potentially eliminate these types of brown discolorations, but, unfortunately, this has no effect on the actual marks left over from blemishes.

Time does tend to reduce the blotches you are dealing with, and patience can be a virtue for these kinds of problems, but no one likes waiting. By far the best skin-care options to consider are the daily use of either Retin-A or Renova (both prescription-only topicals) and exfoliating with an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA such as glycolic acid) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA, or salicylic acid) product. Tretinoin is the active ingredient in the prescription medications Retin-A and Renova. This ingredient helps normalize cell production so your skin can start making healthier, normal-color skin cells. Exfoliating skin with either AHA or BHA helps cell turnover so that healthier skin is always reflected on the surface.

It does help to wear a well-formulated sunscreen on a daily basis and to completely avoid getting a tan (which you should be doing anyway). Unprotected sun exposure and tanning inhibit the skin's ability to heal prolonging the amount of time it takes to fade the marks you want to get rid of.

Skin pigmentation disorders occur because the body produces either too much or too little melanin. Melanin is the pigment produced by specific cells (melanocytes). An enzyme called tyrosinase, which creates the color of our skin, eyes, and hair shades, triggers it. By far, for all skin colors, the most typical cause of darkened areas of skin, brown spots or areas of discoloration is unprotected sun exposure.Once incorrectly referred to as liver spots, these pigment problems have nothing to do whatsoever with the liver. In fact, these discolorations wouldn't have appeared in the first place if skin was diligently protected from the sun over the years.

On lighter to medium skin tones, solar lentigenes emerge as small- to medium-sized brown patches of freckling that can grow and accumulate over time on areas of the body that receive the most unprotected sun exposure, such as the back of the hands, forearms, chest, and face. Aside from sunscreen, topical hydroquinone is considered the next step in reducing or eliminating skin discolorations. In fact, topical application of hydroquinone is considered by many dermatologists to be a safer, as effective (if not more so), and far less expensive optionthan lasers or deep peel treatments. Topical hydroquinone in 2%(available in cosmetics) to 4% concentrations (available from a physician or by prescription), alone or in combination with tretinoin 0.05% to 0.1%, has an impressive track record.

Research has repeatedly shown hydroquinone and tretinoin to be powerful tools against sun- or hormone-induced melasma. Hydroquinone deserves more discussion because it has long been established as being the most effective ingredient for reducing and potentially eliminating melasma. Over-the-counter hydroquinone products can contain 0.5% to 2% concentrations of hydroquinone, while 4% (and sometimes even higher) concentrations are available only from a physician.In medical literature, hydroquinone is considered the primary topical ingredient for inhibiting melanin production. Using it in combination with the other options listed in this section-especially tretinoin-can greatly reduce and even eliminate skin discolorations.

Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production meaning that it prevents skin from making the substance responsible for skin color. Hydroquinone does not bleach the skin, which is why calling it a bleaching agent is a misnomer as it can't remove pigment from the skin cell. Hydroquinone can only disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin hyperpigmentation, which is actually true of any skin-lightening ingredient. When you prevent melanin from being generated, as new skin cells are formed and move to the skin's surface, they do not contain the excess pigment (melanin), therefore reducing or eliminating these darkened areas.

Because of hydroquinone's action on the skin, it can be a skin irritant, particularly in higher concentrations of 4% or greater and predictably when combined with tretinoin. Some medications have been created that combine 4% hydroquinone with tretinoin and a form of cortisone. The cortisone is included as an anti-inflammatory. The negative side effect of repeated application of cortisone is countered by the positive effect of the tretinoin so it doesn't cause thinning of skin and damage to collagen. Hydroquinone can be an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. When exposed to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown. Therefore, when you are considering a hydroquinone product, it is essential to make sure it is packaged in a non-transparent container that doesn't let light in and minimizes air exposure. Hydroquinone products packaged in jars are not recommended; they become ineffective shortly after opening.

 
Thanks for this informative post, Carolyn! The only thing that really helps me is conscientious application of sunscreen.
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Thanks for the great article! I have been using Neostrata HQ(4%) and it is working well, along with sunscreen.

 
Thanks for posting Carolyn! I'm not sure I get the whole skin lightening thing though honestly...

 
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