Sensitive skin: How to deal

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Most people use several different cosmetics every day: cleansers, moisturizers, sunscreens, haircare products, perfume, deodorant and makeup. And most people can choose what they like without a problem. But for those who have sensitive skin, the potential hazards of a new product can make a drugstore seem like a minefield.
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People with normal, dry, combination and oily skin can also have sensitive skin. No matter what your type, if you have sensitive skin, you can suffer breakouts (minor or major), itchiness and redness. Whatever the specifics of the reaction, your skin is telling you – loud and clear – that the product you're using isn't right for you.

There are two basic types of reactions to products: irritant contact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis. Your skin acts as a protective barrier against possible irritants. Skin that is dry or already damaged (bruises, acne and even sunburn) makes irritant contact dermatitis more likely. Allergic contact dermatitis is less common, and refers to a reaction caused by one or more specific ingredients in a product.

The most common causes of reactions are preservatives and fragrances. That doesn't mean preservatives are all bad; they're actually necessary, because they prevent bacteria from growing and protect products from deteriorating when exposed to light and air. Sensitive skins will react better to preservatives containing parabens, including methyl paraben and butyl paraben. The perfumes that are often added to products to make them smell nice are a major cause of contact dermatitis. If you have sensitive skin, it's best to use products that have little or no fragrance. Keep in mind that unscented doesn't mean fragrance free. If a product is labelled "unscented," it can still mean that fragrance has been added to mask the slight chemical odours other ingredients sometimes give off. Choose ones that have "fragrance-free" on the labels, as that means no scent has been added.

All-natural or botanical products may sound wonderful, but they can cause a lot of problems for people with sensitive skin. If you have allergies to specific plants or animals, chances are you'll have a reaction to products that contain those same ingredients. For example, if you're allergic to wool, you'll likely have a reaction to moisturizers containing lanolin. If you have allergies to certain kinds of flowers, facial products containing extracts from those flowers could also have a negative effect.

You'll often see products with labels like "hypoallergenic" or "dermatologist-tested." But because these – and most other cosmetic claims – aren't FDA-regulated or subject to strict approval, consumers still need to be wary. These labels don't guarantee you won't have a reaction to the product. Also, products that are labelled "anti-bacterial" tend to be harsher, and can be irritating for sensitive skin.

SUGGESTED PRODUCTS
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Cleansers

  • Alpha Hydrox Foaming Face Wash (Normal to oily skin, $6.99 at drugstore.com)
  • DDF Sensitive Skin Cleansing Gel (Normal to oily skin, $28 at sephora.com)
  • DHC Deep Cleansing Oil (Normal to dry skin, $11-24 at dhccare.com)
  • L'Occitane Extra Gentle Cleansing Milk (Normal to dry skin, $20 at loccitane.com)
  • Olay Sensitive Skin Foaming Face Wash (All skin types, $4.49 at drugstore.com)
  • Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash (All skin types, $5.99 at walgreens.com)
Moisturizers
  • Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream (All skin types, $11.99 at drugstore.com)
  • Dove Sensitive Essentials Day Lotion (Normal to combination skin, $7.79 at drugstore.com)
  • La Roche Posay Toleriane Facial Fluid (Normal to combination skin, $22 at skinstore.com)
  • LORAC Oil Free Moisturizer (Normal to combination skin, $37.50 at sephora.com)
  • Olay Complete All-Day Moisture Lotion SPF 15-Sensitive Skin (Dry skin, $7.99 at drugstore.com)
TIPS
  • Test products on a small part of your face for at least five nights. If you don't notice any irritation, then you can try applying it over your entire face.
  • Talk to a dermatologist. They can help you determine what your problems are and give you advice on how to treat reactions, and which products to use – or avoid.
  • Don't try several new products at once. Test one at a time, that way if you develop a reaction, you'll know what caused it.
  • If you have combination skin, choose an oil-free moisturizer and apply it only on the parts of your face that need it. If you have oily skin, you don't need a moisturizer, but you should apply sunscreen after washing your face.
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  • Try to choose products with short ingredient lists. The longer the list, the greater the risk of it containing ingredients that can cause irritation.
  • Just because a product indicates it's made for sensitive skin, doesn't mean it won't cause a reaction. Read labels and check ingredients before you buy. If you really want to do some serious research, check your local library for a copy of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (published by The Cosmetic, Fragrance and Toiletry Association) or take a look at the information provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (Cosmetic Ingredient Review Findings).
  • Keep in mind that skin sensitivities vary from person to person. Try to avoid common irritants, but if you find a product that works well for you, by all means keep using it – even if it has an ingredient or two that might cause a reaction in someone else.
  • If you have sensitive skin, physical blockers such as those made with titanium dioxide are the best type of sunscreen to choose, as they tend to provoke fewer reactions than chemical blockers.
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