Retinoic Acid and Retinol
Confusion over Retinol and Retinoic acid. The cosmetic industry tries to create confusion over the actions of retinol (retinyl palmitate, vitamin A) and those of retinoic acid (used in Retin-A and Renova). Even though the molecules are very similar and can be easily converted to the other molecule, their biochemical actions are often opposite. A biochemical analogy is that one key (or molecule) opens a lock while a very similar molecule, like a defective key, jams the lock. Retinoic acid reduces skin oil and has well-proven wrinkle reduction actions. Retinol tends to increase skin oil and has only very modest anti-wrinkle actions. Retinol has been in skin products for the last 60 years - obviously with little effect on wrinkle formation. Some cosmetic facial products that are advertised to contain retinol have only 0.001% retinol - a biologically insignificant amount that does nothing.
Comparison between Retinol and Retinoic Acid
Retinyl palmitate, vitamin A, retinol: (effects) Improves skin moisturization, Reduces protein breakdown, said to reduce wrinkles; (potential problems) low, can cause breakouts in acne prone skin area in younger people
Retinoic acid, Retin-A®, Renova®: (effects) reduces skin oil, reduces wrinkles, reduces acne; (potential problems) High, irritation and redness, (lobster face syndrome), very drying to skin, increases production of the scar forming growth factor (TGF beta 1)
Vitamin A/Retinol helps to remove wrinkles mainly by reducing collagen/elastin degradation. A protein complex called AP-1 produces the enzymes that break apart and degrade collagen and elastin, the major structural materials in skin. While a balance of biosynthesis and breakdown is essential for healthy skin, as we age, the balance is shifted toward excessive breakdown and harmful biochemical changes.
The application to the skin of retinol (normal vitamin A - also called vitamin A alcohol) or retinoic acid (vitamin A acid) helps restore a more normal (younger) balance between the skin's structural protein biosynthesis and breakdown, and also keeps a normal balance between healthy and dying skin cells. The applied vitamin A binds to receptors in the skin which then transfer genetic instructions from DNA to the cell's protein producing machinery which restores the characteristic proteins needed for healthy skin cells.
Creams with Retinol, in general, work very well for people over age 45. Retinol can cause increased acne in person from 18 to 25. Paradoxically, retinol creams can often stop severe chronic cystic acne in some people between 25 and 40. When using retinol creams it is best to start slow and work up to increased amounts of cream.
Confusion over Retinol and Retinoic acid. The cosmetic industry tries to create confusion over the actions of retinol (retinyl palmitate, vitamin A) and those of retinoic acid (used in Retin-A and Renova). Even though the molecules are very similar and can be easily converted to the other molecule, their biochemical actions are often opposite. A biochemical analogy is that one key (or molecule) opens a lock while a very similar molecule, like a defective key, jams the lock. Retinoic acid reduces skin oil and has well-proven wrinkle reduction actions. Retinol tends to increase skin oil and has only very modest anti-wrinkle actions. Retinol has been in skin products for the last 60 years - obviously with little effect on wrinkle formation. Some cosmetic facial products that are advertised to contain retinol have only 0.001% retinol - a biologically insignificant amount that does nothing.
Comparison between Retinol and Retinoic Acid
Retinyl palmitate, vitamin A, retinol: (effects) Improves skin moisturization, Reduces protein breakdown, said to reduce wrinkles; (potential problems) low, can cause breakouts in acne prone skin area in younger people
Retinoic acid, Retin-A®, Renova®: (effects) reduces skin oil, reduces wrinkles, reduces acne; (potential problems) High, irritation and redness, (lobster face syndrome), very drying to skin, increases production of the scar forming growth factor (TGF beta 1)
Vitamin A/Retinol helps to remove wrinkles mainly by reducing collagen/elastin degradation. A protein complex called AP-1 produces the enzymes that break apart and degrade collagen and elastin, the major structural materials in skin. While a balance of biosynthesis and breakdown is essential for healthy skin, as we age, the balance is shifted toward excessive breakdown and harmful biochemical changes.
The application to the skin of retinol (normal vitamin A - also called vitamin A alcohol) or retinoic acid (vitamin A acid) helps restore a more normal (younger) balance between the skin's structural protein biosynthesis and breakdown, and also keeps a normal balance between healthy and dying skin cells. The applied vitamin A binds to receptors in the skin which then transfer genetic instructions from DNA to the cell's protein producing machinery which restores the characteristic proteins needed for healthy skin cells.
Creams with Retinol, in general, work very well for people over age 45. Retinol can cause increased acne in person from 18 to 25. Paradoxically, retinol creams can often stop severe chronic cystic acne in some people between 25 and 40. When using retinol creams it is best to start slow and work up to increased amounts of cream.
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