Premature Aging of Oily Skin

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Premature Aging of Oily Skin (by Fabienne Guichon-Lindholm)

Scientific and physiological research disproves the myth that oil skin does not age as quickly as other skin types. Due to the specific characteristics of oily skin, it simply ages in a different manner.

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In order to understand this aging process, it is necessary to understand the skin’s physiology. Skin consists of two mutually dependent layers: the epidermis and the dermis. Beneath these layers lies a fatty subcutaneous layer, called the adipose tissue.

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The epidermis—the outermost layer of the skin—is composed of keratinocyte, melanocyte, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. Keratinocytes, which are produced in the basal layer and migrate toward the stratum corneium, make up 80-90% of the epidermis. Their primary function is to protect against environmental damage. Melanocytes form 5-10% of the epidermis and are responsible for skin’s pigment and color. Langerhans cells, derived from bone marrow, comprise 5-10% of the dpiermis and recognize aggressive antigens, as well as initiate the immune defense mechanism within the skin. Merkel cells—originated from neural crest cells, which form the majority of the peripheral nervous system—are found in larger quantities in the fingers and palms of the hands; they specialize in the perception of light touch.

The dermis, a more complex structure, contains the papillary layer and the reticular layer. The papillary layer is thinner and is made up of loose connective tissue, capillaries, and elastin and collagen fibers. The reticular layer consists of dense connective tissue containing blood vessels, closely interlaced elastinand collagen fibers, fibroblasts, nerve endings, lymphatics and epidermal appendages, such as sebaceous glands, sweat glands, apocrine glands and hair follicles.

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The dermis is composed primarily of fibroblast cells, which produce procollagen and elastin fibers. Collagen makes up 70% of the weight of the suppleness and comprise less than 1% of the dermis’ weight.

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The dermoepidermal junction connects the epidermis and the dermis. This undulating basement membrane is composed of two layers made of anchoring proteins that play a key role in skin elasticity—the lamina lucida and the lamina densa. The lamina lucida is the lightly staining layer of the basement membrane, and the lamina densa is the thick electron-dense layer beneath it.

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Regulating sebum secretion<O
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Sebaceous glands are found throughout the entire surface of the body, except for on the palms of the hands, as well as on the soles and backs of the feet. These glands are the largest and most concentrated on the face and scalp. Their function is to produce and secret sebum.

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In normal skin, the sebaceous glands produce just enough sebum to form a lubricating layer of protection against moisture loss. The sebum manufactured in the glands then is released into the pores and flows to the surface of the skin, spreading onto the stratum corneum. In the case of oily skin, an average of 50% more sebum is secreted. Called seborrhea, this condition creates a series of imbalances, which results in imperfections and the development of undesirable bacteria.

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External factors, such as climate, pollution, stress, diet, lifestyle and harsh skin care products, can contribute to the overproduction of sebum. Internal triggers, such as hormonal deficiencies, fatigue and age, also aggravate the condition, which causes shininess, enlarged pores, and the formation of papules and pustules.

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In normal skin, the ducts contain only a few dead cells, as the keratinization and desquamation processes allow the sebum to move easily toward the surface. With oily skin, an excessive amount of cells attached to one another slows desquamation and blocks the ducts. This results in the formation of comedones, pustules and papules. Additionally, the surface of the skin is irregular and does not reflect light well, producing a complexion that appears dull and lacks radiance.

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Arresting premature aging

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These obstructions create an environment that is rich in sebum but low in oxygen, producing favorable conditions in which harmful bacteria can develop. This transforms sebum into an irritating agent that causes redness and inflammation.

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In response, the skin’s natural defense system and the Langerhans cells work overtime, manifesting the first signs of premature aging through the deterioration of elastin fibers and a loss of elasticity. This gradual erosion of support fibers increases the slackening of the dermis, producing even greater diminishment. In this respect, oily skin does not wrinkle as much as other skin types, but loses suppleness more rapidly.

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Scientific solutions

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Now that the skin care industry is beginning to gain a better understanding of the premature aging of oily skin, more effective solutions, treatments and products are becoming available to consumers. These offerings focus on the simultaneous treatment of shininess, enlarged pores, imperfections, irritations and the loss of firmness. Although some anti-aging ingredients can be too heavy for oily skin, the following new technology and ingredients aid in combating these problems.

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Seboregulating complex, a substance that contains grapefruit seed, flax and papaya extracts, as well as oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA), helps to correct skin imbalances.

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In order to obtain the active molecule of the grapefruit seed extract, an original extraction method called hyper frequency is used that enables the desired molecules of flavonoids and terpenes to migrate complete at a low temperature without being altered and with no residual solvents. The active ingredients combine the astringent properties of flavonoids with the terpenes to aid in the regulation of undesirable bacteria. The texture of the complexion then is tightened, surface imperfections are reduced, and the skin is purified and soothed.

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Flax extract naturally is full of lignans, whose molecules are known for their ability to minimize the production of sebum. Papaya extract, enriched with papain, exfoliates through an enzymatic action, smoothing the skin and resulting in a more luminous complexion. Oleanolic acid from olive tree leaves, as well as NDGA from the lignans family, help to control shininess, correct skin disorders and eliminate harmful bacteria.

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With the seboregulating complex, the imbalance of nearly all oily skin types can be targeted, yielding a decrease in the signs of premature aging. The combination of thse new ingredients with technology reduces the loss of elasticity, provides anti-aging properties and regulates the production of sebum.

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Gluco-defense technology is a biotechnology-produced sugar complex made from sucrose and maltose that helps to reestablish and balance skin bacteria. It creates and environment that is favorable to beneficial bacteria and detrimental to the undesirable variety that usually is abundant on oily skin and is responsible for the formation of irritating components.

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Solenaceae extract comes from a plant family that includes approximately 2,000 species, incorporating many fruits and vegetables, such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant and pepper. It is obtained by using a biotechnology process involving a potato protein and a biochemical modification of solanaceae protein, giving it anti-aging properties. This active ingredient helps to limit the activity of the enzymes responsible for the deterioration of collagen fibers.

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Control and correct

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It is important to remember that premature aging of all skin types also is caused by the environment, as well as by a lack of moisture. Therefore, oily skin must be protected and hydrated. An antioxidant-rich complex that combats the damage inflicted by free radicals also is a must. For hydration, Japanese blood grass extract helps to stabilize moisture outside the cells.

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Every day, advancements in technology and skin care knowledge yield increasingly more precise methods to address different skin types and conditions. Oily skin now can be treated to control oil secretion, as well as to slow the premature aging process, resulting in a healthier, younger-looking complexion.

 
Thank for sharing this Kim!

This proving that Oily skin needs moisturizer as well, not only for normal and dry skin.

I'm glad that I have never skipped moisturizer, even when my skin changed from normal to oily skin!

Edit:

I never knew that Japanese blood grass is good for skin care, very interesting!

 
This is good to know...I've been thinking about adding papaya supplements to my diet, because of heartburn, which it's successfully regulated in the past, and now I have another good reason.

 

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