Glycolic Acid - Bioavailability...etc...

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“Bioavailability” is the term used by scientists to describe how much glycolic acid is available in a topical cream to permeate the stratum corneum or the outer layer of your skin. “The bioavailability of glycolic acid in a topical formulation is the fraction of glycolic acid that can permeate the stratum corneum of the skin”. (Source Cosmetic Dermatology) “Bioavailability” is also sometimes referred to as “free acid value”.

The term “bioavailability” defines the point of difference between pH ADVANTAGE and other brands. The pH ADVANTAGE Regimens deliver more glycolic acid to the skin due to their unique formulation with a lower pH (bioavailability) and, as a result, they are the most effective glycolic acid products sold in retail today.

In order for you to know how much glycolic acid is actually in a product, you need to know the amount when it is being prepared for processing (we call this the “initial concentration”) and what the pH level is when the processing is completed. If you do not have that information you will not have any idea how effective the product will be. The pH ADVANTAGE glycolic acid products always indicate on the front of the package the pH level, the initial concentration and the bioavailability so that you always know what you are getting.

Remember, the higher the initial concentration and the lower the pH level of a product, the more effective the glycolic acid product will be. For example, in the pH ADVANTAGE AM MOISTURIZER in Regimen 1, the initial concentration of glycolic acid is 7% and the pH level is 3 which means that 5.74% of the glycolic acid (round to 6%) is available to penetrate the stratum corneum. If the pH level of that product were 4.5, the amount of glycolic acid available to penetrate the stratum corneum would be only 1%, hardly enough to do anything at all for your skin. These calculations are based on the Henderson-Hasselbach Equation (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology). Because the pH scale is logarithmic, a difference of one pH unit represents a tenfold or ten times change. As an analogy, earthquakes with magnitudes of between 2.5 to 5.4 only cause minor damage while earthquakes with magnitudes of between 7.0 to 7.9 are considered major and cause severe damage (Source: UPSeis), very similar to the logarithmic scale of pH.

It is important to note that most glycolic acid products in the retail market have pH levels of between 4 and 4.5. On the next page you will see a chart that illustrates the pH scale for glycolic acid products based on the Henderson-Hasselbach Equation. It shows how products with initial concentrations of 7% and 11% respectively can vary in effectiveness depending on the pH level of the product. For example, the pH level of 3 (highlighted on the chart) represents the pH levels of all pH ADVANTAGE glycolic acid products and indicates the “bioavailability” of the products with initial concentrations 7% and 11%. Further down the chart you can see what the “bioavailability” of those products would be if the pH levels were 4.0 and 4.5. Quite a difference!





 
Skin Rx has some great concentrated glycolic acid products and I also love Rhonda Allison's glycolic herbal wash.

 
I have actual glycolic acid and I'm wondering if I can add it to my cleaners or night cream or toner!!! would a drop or two be effective?? and is it even possible to do this and would it do anything and which product would be best to add it to??

Thanks:)

 
Oh we have so many threads on glycolic acid, other AHAs and microdermabrasion but I am not complaining...I love them!!!

Ok, my question, the only product that I use that has glycolic acid in it is my 50% glycolic peel that I do once a week. I have also just started to use copper peptide serum and emu oil every night. My regular moisturizer is just Oil of Olay Hydrating Cream. I am just wondering if I can throw in a glycolic acid wash, toner or something else w/o it being too much glycolic acid for my face???? You see these blackheads have GOT TO GO!!!! :w00t:

 
OMG - my blackheads are stubborn little ******* (insert bad word)!!!!! And you know I just did the 12.5% TCA peel but I think with the 50% glycolic acid I use once a week it didn't do so much. Still got 'em! Maybe I just need to use glycolic acid everything!

 
naturally, i see you PUT 30% glycolic acid in your cider vinegar toner...but where do you GET it from? also, is anyone concerned about the hayflick limit? that says that excessive use of exfoliators and acids will get cells to their 50 division limit sooner and this can make your skin age significantly. Some dr.s are talking about this--others discount it...

i was using paulas choice beta morning and night...then read about over use of acids and decided to take a break from that...i use MDskincare alphabeta daily peel every other day and that seems to work well...

another note...when using copper peptides make sure NOT to do a peel the same day, or use vitamin C or anything acidic at the same time...anything acidic causes the copper to dissociate into free copper and THAT is a free radical and can damage skin--this is why some ladies have very bad results with copper peptides..its worse from the phase 2 peptides than the phase one...

so, use peptides only sparingly once a day and not on your AHA day or your vitamin C time :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
Ok, so don't use the copper peptide serums after an AHA peel such as a glycolic acid peel??? Cripes!!!

Kim - I am going to try the 3% beta hydroxy liquid from makeupartistschoice.com before I do my glycolic peels. I know this is suppose to be good for acne/blackheads and to get the oil of the skin before doing a peel. I have large pores anyway but I know there is gunk in them because they are dark. If I squeeze my nose (not the most brilliant thing I've done) junk comes out of my pores. My blackheads aren't the prominent dark black pores that can easily be squeezed and removed but rather less pronounced but still there.

 
I didn't know you shouldn't use Cu peps after a peel - sheesh! I put Neutrogena's Visibly Firm w/Cu on my face after my first peel on Sun --- at least that's just a phase 1 peptide, but still. I'll put a note right now on my peel bottle for no Cu!

 
Phew! True, the Phase I's aren't near as strong - glad to feel I didn't do that much harm to my first peel results (dontcha just hate backwards steps), but I WILL still stay away from it next peel. You're right, the Exfol Serum is only 2% salaylic.

 
Kim - what do you mean by the uglies??? I just started using the Copper Peptide from Makeupartistschoice.com. I am using the first phase CP. I have used it probably 4-5 times. I use it at night and apply emu oil about 30 mins after. I have REALLY noticed today that I am breaking out (acne). If I were to count I would say at least 3-4 large ones and a few smaller ones where it seems blackhead gunk has come to the surface. I can't say for sure it is the CP but other than the TCA peel that I applied on 3/10 that is all I have done differently in my skin care routine.

I know CP is superior to Retin-A cream (which I am no stranger to) but the Retin-A didn't break my skin out THIS much (hence CP being superior to it). I just want to make sure the CP is clearing the pores and not clogging them leading to the acne. I can deal with the acne if the CP is just clearing the pores as it will eventually stop but if it is clogging them then that just stinks.

Any thoughts on this??? Thanks as always! :icon_smil

 
I didn't know you could use CP and Retin-A together. Would it be a good idea to use the CP and wait for 30 mins and then apply some Retin-A cream and then maybe emu oil on top of all that??? I think I should just put in my order for a new face...hehehe.

 
Great advice Kim! Thanks! :sdrop:

I use glycolic acid skincare stuff and it works awesome. Been using it for a while now adn theres a huge difference! :sdrop:

 
I 'think' that bioavailability is why a lot of the common OTC GA's don't work. I tried L'Oreal ReNuviste - even put on three coats - and nada. With all the other stuff they have in it, it probably reduced the 10% to only an effective (or non-effective as the case may be) 3-5% .... esp since I could not find the pH on it anywhere .... kind of makes me suspicious. I'll definitely not buy an AHA or BHA without first making sure the pH is noted. Thanks as always!

 
Yeah, it seems kinda fishy that you aren't able to find the pH on it. A lot of companies can throw products out there and most consumers aren't going to know the difference. It takes a lot of homework to understand all this stuff...of course, that is why we have these boards. :clap

 

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