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Skin Made Better… Naturally
New Botanical Ingredients
By Margaret Ancira
Science continues to offer us new and ever-changing ways to improve our skin, yet Mother Nature is still the best provider of the skin’s most powerful protectors. What we have learned from medicine and science is that inflammation and free-radical damage are the main offenders in the aging process. These two reactions in the body are responsible for several types of damage and aging in the skin. Newly discovered skin care ingredients harness the power of science and Mother Nature to offer the ultimate in skin preservation.
As we age, the skin’s natural defenses against free radicals decrease. This slow and steady loss of our skin’s inherent protection increases our need to explore available topical agents to build our environmental resistance. Inflammation and free-radical damage occur in all parts of our bodies, yet our skin is particularly at risk as it is in direct contact with oxygen, UV rays and pollutants in our environment. Following are just a few newly discovered components found within the many exciting natural ingredients that are available for achieving and maintaining healthy and beautiful skin.
Ancient wisdom in a cup
Many cultures around the world have long known and revered the benefits of drinking green tea. We now know from preliminary scientific testing that the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits green tea offers us internally also provide protection to our skin when applied topically.
Tea falls into three categories: black, oolong and green tea. All three varieties come from the Camellia sinensis plant. Oolong and black teas are derived from leaves that are dried, fermented and oxidized. This oxidation reduces the beneficial antioxidant components available. Green tea, on the other hand, remains in its natural state and retains its full beneficial super-powered antioxidant capabilities because it is not processed or oxidized.
The main antioxidant components of green tea are polyphenols. The highest concentration of polyphenols found in the leaves of green tea is the polyphenol epigallocatechin gallate or EGCG. A growing body of scientific research reveals EGCG offers very exciting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits in topical skin applications.
As stated by S.K. Katiyar in Current Drug Targets, “Immune, Endocrine & Metabolic Disorders†September 2003, vol. 3, no. 3 (pp. 234-242), “Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of green tea were also observed in human skin. Treatment of EGCG to human skin resulted in the inhibition of UVB-induced erythema, oxidative stress and infiltration of inflammatory leukocytes … The in vitro and in vivo animal and human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols are photoprotective in nature, and can be used as pharmacological agents for prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photoaging, melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers after more clinical trials in humans.†This powerful scientific evidence highlights EGCG as an important addition to cosmeceuticals targeted for skin protection and rejuvenation.
Green tea used in its entirety has many topical benefits as well. According to Clinical Dermatology, “In a study performed at the Memorial Medical Center in the Philippines, Jennifer Gan-Wong, M.D., found that green tea fights bacteria, reduces inflammation and decreases hormone activity to make it an excellent candidate for acne therapy. Her researchers tested 3 percent green tea extract cream against 4 percent benzoyl peroxide cream. After twice-daily applications for 12 weeks, the patients using the green tea extract appeared to have improved their overall complexion. Preliminary data suggests green tea extract cream causes fewer side effects than benzoyl peroxide.†Green tea’s proven skin-friendly properties ensure it will continue to be an important ingredient to our industry.
Newly ‘E’ merging antioxidants
Vitamin E has withstood the test of time for centuries as a popular soothing and healing nutrient. Its enemy, ozone, present in polluted air, decreases vitamin E content in the stratum corneum. This accelerates oxidation and destruction of cell membrane lipids, which in turn cause many varied skin problems. This is one of the reasons it is important to apply D-alpha tocopherol (one of the most commonly used forms of vitamin E) topically to replenish the vitamin E lost by the action of ozone on the skin. This chirally correct, lipid-soluble vitamin helps to neutralize free radicals. The American Academy of Dermatology believes vitamin E is the most important antioxidant in the body because of its protective effect on cell membranes. This antioxidant is abundantly available in many grains and plant oils. Vitamin E is often used in combination with another excellent antioxidant, vitamin C, as the E has the ability to “recycle†or boost the action of the ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
Some scientific circles have suggested that vitamin E may induce dermatitis or allergic reactions. This is largely because of the fact that other types of tocopherol are not chirally correct and can cause irritation. When D-alpha-tocopherol is used, these reactions are avoided.
One of the least known but most effective branches of the vitamin E family are the tocotrienols. They are naturally abundant in many plants, although they are present in much lower levels. This makes the extraction an expensive ingredient to use in formulations. Alpha-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol and delta-tocotrienol are all extremely potent antioxidants, UV protectants and anti-inflammatory agents. Their chemical structure allows them to more effectively penetrate through the lipid bilayer of each cell membrane. They provide the most visible antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits when used in concert with D-alpha tocopherol. Many may question the novelty of this compound because vitamin E has been around for so long in skin care preparations—science isn’t one to rest on its laurels. Evolving technology has allowed us to delve deeper into unlocking the mysteries of ingredients that work, isolate the most active mechanisms in the vitamin, and introduce these newly recognized powerhouses in higher concentrations.
Secrets from the vine
Grapes have captured the world’s attention for many reasons, one of which is the highly touted health benefits of drinking red wine, otherwise known as the “French Paradox.†This is the interesting phenomenon of French people having fewer heart attacks and living longer despite their high-fat diets. This is believed to be because of the high content of resveratrol present in the skins of grapes and in red wine. Resveratrol is a polyphenol and phytoalexin that has been shown to keep the circulatory system healthy as well as greatly reduce UVB-induced erythema and edema in the skin. This powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory is only present in red wine, as red wine is fermented with the grape skins while white wine is fermented without the presence of grape skins. At the heart of the grape is the grape seed, which is rich in oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC). These super-antioxidants protect cells from free-radical damage as well as help to improve cardiovascular function. The high OPC content found in grapes makes them appealing for internal supplementation as well as for cosmeceutical preparations.
Proanthocyanidins are thought to have even more powerful free-radical scavenging ability than both vitamin C and E. Leslie Baumann, M.D., stated in Skin & Allergy News, November 2003, “Proanthocyanidins, or condensed tannins, are said to have the capacity to stabilize collagen and elastin and thus enhance the elasticity, flexibility and appearance of skin.†Dr. Baumann also recognized the need to conduct further clinical trials in order to really determine the true topical benefits of these and other botanical ingredients.
Harnessing the best that science and Mother Nature has to offer is the goal of our industry. Utilizing a broad selection of the above-mentioned antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents in cosmeceutical products will continue, and more exciting options will be continuously uncovered. Even with the benefits of new natural ingredients, a necessary and effective complement to every daily skin care regimen is an effective, full-spectrum SPF of 15 or greater. Diligent use of sun protection will not only protect the skin from premature aging and skin cancers, but will also help to maximize the results that are now achievable with the host of natural ingredients available today. Sensible use of nature plus science equals healthy, beautiful skin!
About Margaret Ancira
Margaret Ancira is an educator, licensed esthetician, and the founder of PCA Advanced Skin Care Systems. In 1990, she launched the first nonprescription, clinically researched skin care line marketed directly to physicians and clinical estheticians. Her innovative products aid in correcting acne, hyperpigmentation, psoriasis, rosacea, and sun damage.
Source
New Botanical Ingredients
By Margaret Ancira
Science continues to offer us new and ever-changing ways to improve our skin, yet Mother Nature is still the best provider of the skin’s most powerful protectors. What we have learned from medicine and science is that inflammation and free-radical damage are the main offenders in the aging process. These two reactions in the body are responsible for several types of damage and aging in the skin. Newly discovered skin care ingredients harness the power of science and Mother Nature to offer the ultimate in skin preservation.
As we age, the skin’s natural defenses against free radicals decrease. This slow and steady loss of our skin’s inherent protection increases our need to explore available topical agents to build our environmental resistance. Inflammation and free-radical damage occur in all parts of our bodies, yet our skin is particularly at risk as it is in direct contact with oxygen, UV rays and pollutants in our environment. Following are just a few newly discovered components found within the many exciting natural ingredients that are available for achieving and maintaining healthy and beautiful skin.
Ancient wisdom in a cup
Many cultures around the world have long known and revered the benefits of drinking green tea. We now know from preliminary scientific testing that the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits green tea offers us internally also provide protection to our skin when applied topically.
Tea falls into three categories: black, oolong and green tea. All three varieties come from the Camellia sinensis plant. Oolong and black teas are derived from leaves that are dried, fermented and oxidized. This oxidation reduces the beneficial antioxidant components available. Green tea, on the other hand, remains in its natural state and retains its full beneficial super-powered antioxidant capabilities because it is not processed or oxidized.
The main antioxidant components of green tea are polyphenols. The highest concentration of polyphenols found in the leaves of green tea is the polyphenol epigallocatechin gallate or EGCG. A growing body of scientific research reveals EGCG offers very exciting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits in topical skin applications.
As stated by S.K. Katiyar in Current Drug Targets, “Immune, Endocrine & Metabolic Disorders†September 2003, vol. 3, no. 3 (pp. 234-242), “Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of green tea were also observed in human skin. Treatment of EGCG to human skin resulted in the inhibition of UVB-induced erythema, oxidative stress and infiltration of inflammatory leukocytes … The in vitro and in vivo animal and human studies suggest that green tea polyphenols are photoprotective in nature, and can be used as pharmacological agents for prevention of solar UVB light-induced skin disorders including photoaging, melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers after more clinical trials in humans.†This powerful scientific evidence highlights EGCG as an important addition to cosmeceuticals targeted for skin protection and rejuvenation.
Green tea used in its entirety has many topical benefits as well. According to Clinical Dermatology, “In a study performed at the Memorial Medical Center in the Philippines, Jennifer Gan-Wong, M.D., found that green tea fights bacteria, reduces inflammation and decreases hormone activity to make it an excellent candidate for acne therapy. Her researchers tested 3 percent green tea extract cream against 4 percent benzoyl peroxide cream. After twice-daily applications for 12 weeks, the patients using the green tea extract appeared to have improved their overall complexion. Preliminary data suggests green tea extract cream causes fewer side effects than benzoyl peroxide.†Green tea’s proven skin-friendly properties ensure it will continue to be an important ingredient to our industry.
Newly ‘E’ merging antioxidants
Vitamin E has withstood the test of time for centuries as a popular soothing and healing nutrient. Its enemy, ozone, present in polluted air, decreases vitamin E content in the stratum corneum. This accelerates oxidation and destruction of cell membrane lipids, which in turn cause many varied skin problems. This is one of the reasons it is important to apply D-alpha tocopherol (one of the most commonly used forms of vitamin E) topically to replenish the vitamin E lost by the action of ozone on the skin. This chirally correct, lipid-soluble vitamin helps to neutralize free radicals. The American Academy of Dermatology believes vitamin E is the most important antioxidant in the body because of its protective effect on cell membranes. This antioxidant is abundantly available in many grains and plant oils. Vitamin E is often used in combination with another excellent antioxidant, vitamin C, as the E has the ability to “recycle†or boost the action of the ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
Some scientific circles have suggested that vitamin E may induce dermatitis or allergic reactions. This is largely because of the fact that other types of tocopherol are not chirally correct and can cause irritation. When D-alpha-tocopherol is used, these reactions are avoided.
One of the least known but most effective branches of the vitamin E family are the tocotrienols. They are naturally abundant in many plants, although they are present in much lower levels. This makes the extraction an expensive ingredient to use in formulations. Alpha-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol and delta-tocotrienol are all extremely potent antioxidants, UV protectants and anti-inflammatory agents. Their chemical structure allows them to more effectively penetrate through the lipid bilayer of each cell membrane. They provide the most visible antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits when used in concert with D-alpha tocopherol. Many may question the novelty of this compound because vitamin E has been around for so long in skin care preparations—science isn’t one to rest on its laurels. Evolving technology has allowed us to delve deeper into unlocking the mysteries of ingredients that work, isolate the most active mechanisms in the vitamin, and introduce these newly recognized powerhouses in higher concentrations.
Secrets from the vine
Grapes have captured the world’s attention for many reasons, one of which is the highly touted health benefits of drinking red wine, otherwise known as the “French Paradox.†This is the interesting phenomenon of French people having fewer heart attacks and living longer despite their high-fat diets. This is believed to be because of the high content of resveratrol present in the skins of grapes and in red wine. Resveratrol is a polyphenol and phytoalexin that has been shown to keep the circulatory system healthy as well as greatly reduce UVB-induced erythema and edema in the skin. This powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory is only present in red wine, as red wine is fermented with the grape skins while white wine is fermented without the presence of grape skins. At the heart of the grape is the grape seed, which is rich in oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC). These super-antioxidants protect cells from free-radical damage as well as help to improve cardiovascular function. The high OPC content found in grapes makes them appealing for internal supplementation as well as for cosmeceutical preparations.
Proanthocyanidins are thought to have even more powerful free-radical scavenging ability than both vitamin C and E. Leslie Baumann, M.D., stated in Skin & Allergy News, November 2003, “Proanthocyanidins, or condensed tannins, are said to have the capacity to stabilize collagen and elastin and thus enhance the elasticity, flexibility and appearance of skin.†Dr. Baumann also recognized the need to conduct further clinical trials in order to really determine the true topical benefits of these and other botanical ingredients.
Harnessing the best that science and Mother Nature has to offer is the goal of our industry. Utilizing a broad selection of the above-mentioned antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents in cosmeceutical products will continue, and more exciting options will be continuously uncovered. Even with the benefits of new natural ingredients, a necessary and effective complement to every daily skin care regimen is an effective, full-spectrum SPF of 15 or greater. Diligent use of sun protection will not only protect the skin from premature aging and skin cancers, but will also help to maximize the results that are now achievable with the host of natural ingredients available today. Sensible use of nature plus science equals healthy, beautiful skin!
About Margaret Ancira
Margaret Ancira is an educator, licensed esthetician, and the founder of PCA Advanced Skin Care Systems. In 1990, she launched the first nonprescription, clinically researched skin care line marketed directly to physicians and clinical estheticians. Her innovative products aid in correcting acne, hyperpigmentation, psoriasis, rosacea, and sun damage.
Source
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