Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHA's

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AHA's and clogged pores (just talking about 2 of the AHA's)

Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is one of several alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) that are found in certain plants and fruits. Glycolic acid is the most commonly found AHA in cosmetic and skincare products and is derived from sugar cane.

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells that have accumulated on the surface of the skin. The build-up of these dead cells accentuates fine lines and dulls the appearance of the skin. It's also great for clearing black heads and minimizing pores.

Glycolic acid loosens the glue-like substance that holds layers of skin cells together. With use of a glycolic the “glue” becomes loosened and thickened dead skin is sloughed away, leaving newer skin cells with a smoother texture and healthy appearance on the surface. Glycolics have also proven to be excellent for unclogging pores which decreases the tendency for acne to appear.

When first beginning a glycolic treatment or regimen there are a few things for which you should be prepared. You should feel a tingling sensation when applying a glycolic acid. After a few days of use you may notice slight redness or irritation of the skin as well as light to moderate flaking. Generally irritation will taper off within 2 to 3 weeks as your skin becomes accustomed to the product.

When starting out with a glycolic product it is best to use around a 10% glycolic content until your skin acclimates then you can gradually increase the percentage you are using.

Because each person’s skin is unique, it will react differently to products than another person’s skin. It is important to keep in mind the concentration of glycolic acid in a product as well as the pH of the product. The most effective glycolic products consist of 8% to 25% glycolic acid and have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. The higher the amount of glycolic acid, the higher the pH can be.

Glycolics actually work well in conjunction with other types of products such as Retin-A, retinol, Vitamin C, bleaching agents and topical acne treatments. With prescription-strength products, it is recommended that you alternate usage of the glycolic and the prescription product to avoid possible irritation.

Many people experience some form of flaking during their treatment. Skin type has a lot to do with how much exfoliation you will experience. Glycolic acid will not cause more drying or dehydration for those with dry skin types; if you do have dry skin, you will tend to flake more than oily skin types because you have more dead skin cells that are being sloughed off. Glycolic acid tends to be very hydrating and therefore an excellent option for dry skin types who wish to resurface their skin.

If you feel glycolic acid is too harsh for your skin, a beta hydroxy acid regimen (products containing salicylic acid) may be the most beneficial for you.

Salicylic Acid:

Salicylic Acid - The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy (salicylic) acid is solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the sebum-filled pore and exfoliate the dead skin cells that have built up and clogged it. Because of this beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with acne, but is commonly used for aging skin and sun damage as well.

A gentle exfoliant. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and hence penetrates the fatty sebum produced by sebaceous glands, eliminates acne causing bacteria, and reduces the clogging of infected pores and acne.

Salicylic acid is effective at concentration between 1 and 3%. Glycolic acid becomes effective at concentrations of about 7% to 10%

Hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid, are widely used as exfoliating agents and for skin peels. They remove dead skin cells and also loosen and slowly dissolve skin lesions such as acne scars, keloid scars, surgical scars, burn scars, moles, skin tags, stretch marks, age spots, and sun damage marks.

Salicylic acid is effective at concentration between 1 and 3%. Glycolic acid becomes effective at concentrations of about 7% to 10%

The secret of hydroxy acid actions is that your healthy, normal skin is very tough and has a high resistance to such acids. In contrast, most skin lesions have less structural integrity and are more easily broken down by the acids. The repeated use of such acids over periods of a month or longer slowly dissolves most skin lesions.

Some research suggests that BHAs, especially salicylic acid, may be more effective in exfoliating the lower dermal skin layers and may be less irritating. Synthetic salicylic acid has long been in dermatology for treating adult acne. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and hence penetrates the fatty sebum produced by sebaceous glands, eliminates acne causing bacteria, and reduces the clogging of infected pores and acne.

A small amount of the salicylic acid is converted into copper salicylate, a powerful and safe anti-inflammatory. This blends skin exfoliation with skin soothing actions. Salicylate also has ultraviolet absorbing properties. Prof. John Sorenson has researched and written extensively on beneficial actions of copper salicylate on skin, general health, and the anti-cancer properties of copper salicylates.

Leading dermatologist, Dr. Albert Kligman, in particular salicylic, at concentrations of about 2%, are better than Glycolic acid for anti-aging and for skin exfoliation. Professor Kligman is well known in dermatology for his research on the anti-aging actions of retinoic acid (Retin-A). Results from Dr. Kligman's laboratory found that the outermost stratum corneum layer is renewed after applications of salicylic acid.

To minimize or Improve your pores: (using SRCP's)

1. In the morning, wipe your face with a 2% salicylic acid pad (available at drugstrores).

2. Then apply a light amount of Exfol Serum (2% Salicylic acid) and leave it on.

3. At night, apply Super CP Serum (a SRCP plus salicylic serum) and leave it on.

Start with a maximum of 4 drops daily, then slowly increase the amount used.

4. About every two weeks, use pore cleansing strips on problem area. Drugstores have these.

Just do not overuse these to the point of skin irritation.

 
Hi Kim, and all you out there who have used AHA's/BHA's. Here's my confusion .... I read about people using a, say, 10% glycolic peel once a week ... and some people use a 10% glycolic leave-on cream ... same thing for the BHA's except of course at lower %. If you use a 10% glycolic "peel", meaning you leave it on for x minutes and then wash it off because it would keep eating into your skin, then how in creation can you use a leave-on product with 10% glycolic acid in it and wear it all day without it eating you up? (dang I hope I'm explaining my confusion right) :confused:

Thanks for any and all enlightenment,

Kathy

 
Hey Dolphin, usually glycolic peels start at 30%, not 10. If you left 10% on your skin I'm sure it'd be fine, maybe even 15% if you're not sensitive, but if you left 30% on all day I'm sure you could experience adverse effects!

 
I use 8% AHA and 2% BHA from paula's choice. I swear by these products. My skin is as clear as ever! These are my HG products. Would recommend everyone to use it. It really clear up my pores.

 
Can one buy good % (>15% if glycolic) peels at a common drugstore like CVS? It seems the top products people give kudos to are all on-line order only.

Thanks, Kim. I did find that thread you mentioned where you talked about (and posted a link to) "bioavailability" after I did a search on AHA threads and read thru a LOT of past posts. Cleared the confusion totally. I wanted to post back in case there were others with the same question, but my computer froze and by the time I got it up and running, I had to go listen to my friends do their karaoke thing - lol.

I'm ready to try some sort of peel - just have to figure out which one to order and the %. Long time ago I tried University Medical Products Face Lift Peel and it didn't do a thing - not even one little tingle out of it, so I trashed it eventually - no clue what the % glycolic was in it and their site doesn't say. From what I've read, because of my age, having normal skin, not sensitive, and that I don't have an acne/blackhead/rosacea problem (and never did other than normal teenage zit years), the glycolics would be best for me. And because my skin is not sensitive, I can probably go with a higher-than-normal starting %. Hey, I can always rinse real fast if s**t happens and buy a lesser %.

Kathy (a tad nervous about doing a real peel - it's the chemicals on the face thingy)

 
Kim thanks SO much for posting this information! I have been using these products but just didn't know what they were actually doing or why I was doing them. Also, I didn't know what the actual names of aha/bha's were, ex. glycolic, salicylic, etc...I am printing this out so I can really let this sink in.

 
LOL, Kim. That was a big DUH on my part - feel like a dutz now - lol. I knew they were natural. I think I was just getting so nervous about the peeling skin part that I forgot they were "natural" in our skin - ok, to a far lesser extent (%), but still there.

Yes, there is a Sephora about 35 min away. Fifty bucks seemed really steep in light of all the SCRP and other stuff I've been buying within the past few weeks. But then I read the product instructions online and it said to only use them once a week, so that's only $1 per week ... not bad at all.

Thanks for all your help, Kim. :clap With the threads you start and the time you take with people, you certainly deserve to be SuperMod!

Kathy

 
Can you tell us exactly how you do this? If we are basically beginners (I've been using Avon Anew 2-step peel) which strength do we start at and how do we make it? Do we just dip the GA onto the pad? Also, are we supposed to use something after using the pads since with the Anew system, you use another pad to help soothe your skin. Thanks for all the help!

 
While I love the results the Anew has given me, I also found out about the fillers too after using it and I've been on the lookout for an alternative. While looking at makeupartistschoice website, I only found 40% lactic acid peels (which they said is great for beginners) and 30% glycolic peels. Which one do you think is a good one to start with? Isn't the 30% quite a step up from the 10% in Anew or is it still a good one to start?

 
Thanks for the fast reply. I had really planned on waiting to purchase this for about a week, but after calling them, I got so excited and ordered the 40% lactic acid peel to start. She asked me a bunch of questions such as how my skin was now and what was I wanting it to accomplish. I ordered the trial size which is supposed to be good for 10 peels so I'll try that and if I don't think it's doing enough, I'll move up to the 30% glycolic.

 

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